Our most entertaining event of the trip happened as an accident of a traffic tie-up on our way out of Marseillan back to Spain. To avoid the "bouchon" and find lunch we stopped in a very small town off N9, Fitou. Our queries about restaurants led us to Lou Courtal des Vidals up a steep hill off the village center, where Fran had the best meal of her vacation (by choosing the astounding buffet), and, into the bargain, got a saxaphone serenade from the owner. The place was packed solid from 12:15 until mid-afternoon on a Saturday, and now we know why!