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Sète is a major large-boat fishing port, and the fishing is mostly done by Italians. We have stayed in Sète during former trips to France, and love its working port feel and gritty back streets--as well as the wonderful buildings on the canals and the steep rise of the Mont St. Clair neighborhood. This year's visit was enhanced by the discovery of a major art installation about the sea-- at the Regional Center of Contermporary Art, by Agnes Varda, now in her 80s, whose film Cléo From 5 to 7 knocked me for a loop in the 1960s. The silver car under the ominous clouds on the Med beach road is our trusty car rental for the entire trip, a SEAT Léon!

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